Traveling along the Baima Snow Mountain route is a landscape we have always wanted to present to everyone and have been planning for a long time. There, you can not only visit century-old ancient temples and exotic churches, but also experience the simple life of Tibetan families, stroll through primitive forests, gaze at continuous snow peaks, and encounter diverse and blended cultural customs. The scenery is magnificent and the experience is rich; it will be an unforgettable Tibetan journey.

2026.05.22-24 Baima Snow Mountain Route Travel Record

Activity Arrangement:

🚩The activity requires a minimum of two people and lasts 3 days (2 nights). It departs every Thursday, but can also be coordinated with the guide according to your own schedule, and basically can be accommodated.

Departure Time:

On the first day at 10:00 noon, meet at Mountain Coffee at the foot of the mountain. Drive for about 4 hours to a Halal restaurant in Weixi County for lunch, and arrive at Shouguo Temple at 4 PM. After the visit, head to Cizhong Church.

In the evening, stay in a Tibetan village in the mountains, have dinner at a Tibetan brother's home. Accommodation can be chosen as a homestay in the village or at the Tibetan brother's home.

On the second day, have breakfast at the Tibetan brother's home at 8:00 (Tibetan breakfast: butter tea, fried cakes). After breakfast, set off for mountain hiking. The total hike is 7 kilometers with an elevation gain of about 350 meters. Have a tea break at the mountain top pasture midway.

In the evening, drive over the Baima Snow Mountain Pass, and arrive at a hotel near Dongzhulin Temple around 8:30 PM. Have dinner at the hotel restaurant and rest.

On the third day, sleep until you wake up naturally, then have breakfast, and head to Dongzhulin Temple.

Have lunch in Benzilan Town at noon, start the return journey around 2-3 PM, and expect to arrive in Dali at 8:00 PM.

Notes

1. The Baima Snow Mountain route trip is a 3-day, 2-night activity. It is a road trip in the Baima Snow Mountain area, staying in mountain homes and hotels. Guests with a relaxed travel attitude, not picky, and with a delicate sense of feeling are welcome.

2. The entire activity will take place in areas ranging from about 2000 meters to 4300 meters above sea level, with large temperature differences. Please prepare clothing according to your own situation.

3. Accommodation defaults to one person per room.

4. The fee includes guide fees, round-trip transportation, travel insurance, 2 nights' accommodation, 6 meals, and mountain entry fees, which means all expenses except personal shopping.

5. The fee is per person, same price for adults and children, no group discounts.

At dusk, the phone screen showed we were approaching 4300 meters. As the altitude increased, the temperature inside the car became colder and colder. Silly us, were so shocked by the magnificent scenery before us that we forgot to turn on the heater, praising while shivering and breathing out mist. At this moment, we were crossing the Baima Snow Mountain Pass. The figure of Zhalha Queni was hidden in the clouds and mist, and a huge spiral-shaped golden cloud was not far from it. Excited, I immediately sent a photo to Jason and said: Our pathfinding luck.

The origin of this trip was in the autumn of 2025. After returning from a trip, He Chen talked to me several times about a Tibetan village at the foot of Nongbu Geqie Mountain, and a Tibetan brother he met on this trip, saying that I would definitely like it there, and the forest, temples, churches, and people in that world surrounded by snow mountains...

When we set off and left Dali, the heat of May chased us along the emerald Lancang River until we reached Kangpu in Weixi, where it slightly subsided. The afternoon breeze gradually rose, blowing the prayer flags, treasure banners, and wind chimes of Shouguo Temple. This little-known Karma Kagyu temple hidden in the Lancang River canyon is perhaps the most unique Tibetan Buddhist temple I have ever visited. This was our first stop.

When we arrived, the monks were chanting in the main hall. I somewhat rashly stepped over a slightly ajar courtyard door next to the main hall. In the center of the courtyard was a beautiful and old crape myrtle tree. Inside, several black curtains were hanging. A young monk who was chanting saw me, was surprised for a second, then immediately regained his composure and said: Since you are here, kneel down and kowtow three times, then pour this bottle of wine into the cup. I did as I was told without understanding why. As the wine was poured, the cup made a lovely tinkling sound. We chatted a few words. He politely informed me that this courtyard does not usually receive outsiders. He saw me out and gently closed the door.

In the seventh year of the Yongzheng reign of the Qing Dynasty, in response to the 'replacement of local chieftains with appointed officials' (the policy of appointed officials), the Naxi female chieftain He Niang of Yezhi, who believed in the Karma Kagyu school, voluntarily funded the construction of Shouguo Temple. During the period of 'replacement of local chieftains with appointed officials', Shouguo Temple was protected by the power of the Naxi chieftains, avoiding forced conversion by the Gelug school, allowing the Kagyu school to be completely preserved here, becoming the largest existing Kagyu temple in northwestern Yunnan.

Shouguo Temple blends Han, Tibetan, and Bai architectural styles. Inside the temple, many exquisite murals with elements of multiple ethnic beliefs and cultures are still preserved. Balancing among Naxi chieftains, Tibetan living Buddhas, and Han appointed officials, it has gone through a long period of loneliness in this canyon.

On the opposite bank of the Lancang River, another 'century of solitude' facing Shouguo Temple across the river is Cizhong Church. On the way to Cizhong Village, we drove through Yezhi Town, where the new Deqin county seat is located. It currently looks like a large construction site, under vigorous construction.

We parked outside the wall of Cizhong Church. When turning into the alley leading to the church, we saw a vineyard. The grandfather in the garden said that this grape variety was transplanted from France by those 'foreigners from afar'. More than 100 years ago, these French missionaries carried not only the Bible but also Bordeaux grape seeds. This ancient variety called 'Rose Honey' became completely extinct in its hometown due to a phylloxera plague that swept Europe, but survived in this small village at the foot of the Tibetan snow mountains, growing quietly until today.

Entering the courtyard, the church before me made me exclaim repeatedly. It is perhaps more unique than any church I have seen in many countries. Western-style stone architecture, but the roof is covered with Han-style flying eaves. Inside, the paintings on the walls and ceiling have Bai and Tibetan decorative elements. Believers, mostly local middle-aged and elderly people, were sitting in twos and threes on the pews, praying silently.

In 1905, as land and religious conflicts with the locals deepened, the famous Weixi religious case broke out. Father Yu Bonan was killed, and the Cigu Church not far from here was burned down. Under diplomatic pressure, the Qing government forced major monasteries and people in Deqin to fund the reconstruction of the church. Twelve years later, Cizhong Church was completed and became the Catholic cathedral of the Yunnan mission area. Times have changed. According to statistics, currently about 60% of the villagers in Cizhong are Catholic believers, and the rest believe in Tibetan Buddhism. Both cover Tibetan, Han, Lisu, Naxi, and other ethnic groups. Families of different beliefs and ethnicities can now live in harmony.

Coming out of the church, while we sat by the roadside resting, we occasionally saw some Western faces coming to visit. They must know the story, and with what feelings do they come here.

The Tibetan brother mentioned by He Chen sent a message saying that he was working at a construction site today and would not be home until later, so we should go to his home by ourselves. By the time we arrived, it was already dark, and we could not see the appearance of the village. Entering the living room, the brother's family was all there, saying that the chicken had been killed. While He Chen was busy in the kitchen, we lay on the second-floor platform to rest. There were many stars in the sky, and the fatigue of the day's journey slowly dissipated at this moment. It was so quiet here. I indeed liked it immediately, perhaps also because I am used to Tibetan furniture and smells. It was indeed as He Chen said, like going to a relative's home when I was a child.

It was not until late at night that the brother rode back on his motorcycle, looking tired. When asked what work he did, he said he was building houses for the government in Yezhi Town. This reminded me of a distant yet not-too-distant past event. This event, also just two months ago, I had learned from a book. Now on the brother's tired face, I got a strange sense of time travel.

In 1991, the Sino-Japanese scientific expedition climbing Kawagebo Peak encountered a mountain disaster. All 17 climbers disappeared in that stormy night, with no survivors. The subsequent handling and discussion of the disaster lasted for years, and to some extent made this sacred mountain, called Kawagebo by Tibetans, known to the outside world by the inaccurate name 'Meili Snow Mountain'. The 'unconquerable sacred mountain' began to attract tourists. However, Deqin County, located in a steep canyon, has been under the continuous threat of increasing geological hazard points since the 1990s. In the early 2000s, the ban on logging natural forests, the influx of tourists, and considerable economic benefits temporarily put this ever-hanging Sword of Damocles aside. Until 2020, when the number of geological hazard points surged to over a hundred, the decision to relocate became unavoidable. Yezhi Town, with its flat terrain, lower altitude, and low geological hazard risk, became the first choice for the new Deqin county seat. The brother said that the houses have been under construction since last year and will take another 2-3 years to complete.

We called the village secretary and coordinated for the brother to take us up the mountain tomorrow, then went to sleep. The next morning, if you can get up, it is highly recommended to take a walk in the village. You will like it even more. The quaint and natural Tibetan-style houses line both sides of the village road. Villagers walk leisurely on the road and between the fields. The village is like a paradise wrapped in tall walnut trees.

After having butter tea and delicious fried cakes, we set off up the mountain. It started to drizzle, and fog rose in the mountains. Yanzi and Zhenhao were very much looking forward to finding a morel mushroom today.

The forest here is primitive and open, with giant trees covered in Spanish moss everywhere. It is a type I have never been to before. The path in the forest slowly goes up, extending all the way to the pasture at the top of the mountain. There, you can simultaneously see the Biluo Snow Mountain, Baima Snow Mountain, and the Lancang River canyon. We had a short tea break in an abandoned log cabin at the pasture, exclaiming repeatedly: What a superb view!

Li Zhenhao practicing Baduanjin

Indeed found one

This hiking route, even if taken alone, is an impeccable and perfect hiking activity suitable for most people, I thought at the time as a hiking guide.

In the evening, we said goodbye to the lovely brother and this beautiful village, and drove over Baima Snow Mountain to Benzilan. He Chen was racing against the sun, driving the green car Asai swiftly in the world of snow mountains, while patting the car door to drive away yaks strolling on the road. The distant Kawagebo sacred mountain (Meili Snow Mountain) seemed near and far. 'I have finally returned to the Tibetan land!' The advantage of being good at cutting up various stages of life is that you can secretly run back to peek at the past. This feeling is very wonderful.

As night fell, we arrived at a hotel near Dongzhulin Temple. The hotel is run by an elderly Tibetan couple and is full of the atmosphere of the 'backpacker era'. It has been a long time since we stayed in such a place. During dinner, we talked about some things from that time with a slightly strange feeling, a bit ashamed but nostalgic.

In the morning, we waited for noodles in the hotel restaurant. Outside the window, in the highland barley field, villagers sat together having breakfast. On the road, an old grandmother tirelessly used a long bamboo pole to drive away birds to prevent them from pecking at her cherry tree. From here, we could already see the golden roof of Dongzhulin Temple in the distance. Until we left, the old grandmother was still 'fighting' with those birds.

We entered through a quiet alley behind the temple, passing through the monks' quarters where the lamas usually live, as if walking in a quiet Tibetan village. The monks' quarters here are neat and modern. The monks have planted many lovely flowers and green plants on their small balconies. Taking care of plants is originally a lesson in cultivating patience and focus. I am a poor student in this lesson.

Gadan Dongzhulin Temple was once a Kagyu temple like Shouguo Temple, but had a completely different fate. As a Kagyu temple at the time, Dongzhulin Temple participated in the Kham Tibetan region's war against the Gelug school in the 17th century. After defeat, it was ordered by the Fifth Dalai Lama to convert to the Gelug school. By merging surrounding temples, Dongzhulin Temple actually grew larger.

Stepping into the main assembly hall, in the center are statues of the Gelug founder Tsongkhapa and his disciples, declaring to every visitor that this is a Gelug practice center.

Taking the wooden stairs on the left side of the main hall upstairs, you can visit floor by floor. On the third floor, in the center of the assembly hall, there is a huge three-dimensional golden mandala inlaid with various gems and agates, like a miniature palace, extremely intricate and solemn. Dongzhulin Temple has three such mandalas in total, but these are the only three three-dimensional mandalas in the Kham Tibetan region.

We returned along the old National Highway 214. Outside the window were narrow and steep cliffs. This forgotten road runs straight through the villages along the way, seemingly becoming part of the village. Nowadays, few cars use this road. Cattle and sheep in the village walk casually on the road, and we need to stop and gently remind them to make way.

When approaching Shangri-La, a village appeared on the distant hillside, surrounded by a huge dark green pine forest. Behind it are two snow mountains, Shika and Tianbao. I fell in love at first sight and plan to come here this autumn to stay and walk in that forest. Although I could not find its name, it is better not to know the name, so that the world will not become smaller.